The author is complaining that she hates men's cooking but acknowledges that somewhere in the world there may be some that she likes. She then says:
だからただしくは、今まで喰らってきた男の料理を私は好きにはなれなかった、と言うべきなんだろう。
However, more accurately, I should probably say that I haven't come to like any of the men's cooking that I've eaten up until now.
I don't understand the function of the は in bold. I assume it's contrastive but I don't see what is being contrasted. I must admit that I'm not 100% happy with the は in ただしくは either. Perhaps it's related but I don't see how.
In fact the part I would expect to be contrasted, given the context, is 今まで. That's where I (no doubt wrongly) would have put the は. Confused.