As you imply, どころ indeed seems to have been derived from ところ by rendaku, but today, it has evolved into an independent expression. It is no longer part of a compound. The initial voicedness stands by itself. You cannot replace どころ with ところ any more.
'It goes without saying that you cannot enjoy the beauty of Kinkakuji'.
'This is not a place/moment where you are supposed to enjoy the beauty of Kinkakuji'.
Interesting question. I had not realized cases where rendaku fossilized into an independent expression.
The alternative you give is correct. A related expression with a different meaning you may want to compare with is: